Collection: UV Lighting

UV Lighting

UV (blacklight) fixtures make fluorescent paints, dyes, costume, scenic finishes and inks glow while leaving the surrounding space dark. Getting the effect right is mostly about wavelength, output and control — here is what matters when you specify.

UV bands explained

Why 365nm matters

Cheaper "UV" LEDs typically peak around 390-400nm, which sits on the edge of visible light — you get a purple haze across the room and a weak glow. True 365nm UV-A emits almost no visible light, so the fixture itself looks dim while the fluorescent response is dramatically stronger and cleaner. 

Adding an optional black glass filter blocks the remaining visible spill entirely, for a complete blackout look where only the glow is seen.

Choosing output and beam

• Distance: UV output falls off quickly. Narrow beams (20-25°) throw further and hold intensity; wide beams (45-100°) cover large surfaces evenly at short range.
• Surface: Pigment quality drives brightness as much as fixture output — test your paints and costume under the fixture before committing.
• Ambient light: Any white light in the space washes out the effect. Control spill first, then add UV.
• Environment: Outdoors, or anywhere exposed to weather, needs IP65 rated fixtures and drivers.

Installed vs mobile systems

Self-contained fixtures (e.g. Prisma Par and Prisma Wash) take mains power and DMX directly.

The Prisma Mini range is remote-driven: up to eight Mini fixtures run from a single Prisma Driver 8 (indoor) or Driver 8 IP (outdoor) up to 12m away, which keeps the visible hardware tiny for themed and architectural installations.

Safe use

UV-A is used routinely in entertainment, but follow good practice: do not stare into the source, keep fixtures out of eye line at close range, observe the manufacturer's minimum distances, and brief performers and crew working under long UV exposure.

Not sure what suits your space? Talk to our team — we will spec the right wavelength, output and control for the job.